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I was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of fiery, roughly ground spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

400g starchy potatoes, sliced into 4cm chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, diced into 2cm cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic pieces, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml flavorless oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Tip into a sizable container with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then place on a tray and reserve for later – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the heat of your broiler, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the sauce on the side for serving.